Thursday, May 24, 2007

Wine Musings LTD: Angwin to Zahtila Day 3

Day 3 was our final day in Napa and we meant to get the most out of it. Our schedule spanned from Atlas Peak to Howell Mountain so there was no dallying!

Our first stop was the brand spankin’ new tasting room of Jocelyn Lonen, at what seemed to be the very Peak of Atlas Peak road. What a view! The lovely and gracious Brandi Jocelyn Pack was there to greet us, give us a tour of the estate and pour some of her beautiful Pritchard Hill cabernets. It is wonderful to see someone who cares so much about making great wine while incorporating it into a life that still centers around friends and family. I encourage anyone going to the area to visit Brandi and sign up for her newsletter. These are worthy wines at wonderful price points. Fantastic.

In an odd twist, Brandi sells her estate fruit (which had been under contract for some time) while sourcing cabernet sauvignon and cab franc from the Krupps. That is, however, soon to change. Jamie Whetstone, of Turley and Whetstone fame, is Brandi’s winemaker and his commitment to outstanding, deep cabernet is immediately apparent. To the wines:

***+Jocelyn Lonen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Wow. Really lovely with pronounced aromatics right from the first pour. More pronounced cab franc elements of mocha, truffle, grilled meats and violets accompany great, rich red fruit notes. Wonderful richness again on the palate with superb depth and mineral notes. Sweet, long, spicy finish. Sexy.

***Jocelyn Lonen Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: A wonderful wine at a great QPR (quality / price ratio). Chocolaty, fruit forward, lovely Napa cab. Ripe fruit dominates the nose with elements of café latte and vanilla. Firm, full bodied, nicely integrated and palate coating, this wine can be consumed over the shorter term but will benefit from 12 months in the cellar.

***++Jocelyn Lonen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Powerful. Brooding. Great mountain fruit elements of briar, blackberry, cassis and chalky minerals. Great structure across the palate. Teeth staining. Firm, furry finish promises rewards for time in the cellar. Very Worthy.

Our second stop was at the other end of the valley – at even higher elevation. Outpost Winery requires a meandering drive up to the peak of Howell Mountain. The views are spectacular – you can actually watch hawks circle below you as they prey upon field animals in the vineyards - and the wines equally so. Thomas Rivers Brown, winemaker to the stars, crafts wonderful wines up here and was kind enough to spend a few hours with us, tasting through nor only the Outpost wines, but barrel sampling the nearly completed Schrader cabs and the new Two Hands bottling. I also took the opportunity to pick up a few bottles of Rivers Marie cabernet from the recent 2004 vintage. I have to say, it is great hanging out with Thomas. He is a rock star in Napa Valley winemaking these days – do yourself a favor and try his recently minted Maybach wines – but down to earth, sincere and earnest in his desire to craft truly exceptional wines. I am a huge fan. Tasted in the beautiful tasting room:

***++Outpost Howell Mountain zinfandel, 2005: Most of you know that I am not a big fan of those balls out, high octane zins. Except this one. Wow. What a sensory experience. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to drink this or just dab a few drops behind each ear. Powerful, perfumed, dripping with jammy, blackberry and boysenberry preserve, church incense, floral violets, minerals and licorice root. Palate staining but not flabby at all – this is a tour de force of mountain zinfandel. Reminds me of older Sky zins I used to appreciate very much back in the day. A great wine.

***++Outpost Howell Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Powerful. Black, brambly mountain fruit, with an atypical purity and laser focus. Cassis and generous oak. Lovely integration and depth. Lonnnng finish. Gorgeous.

**+Outpost Howell Mountain Petite Sirah, 2004: Not 100% sure of the vintage. I am not a petite fan – this is nice but not my thing. Deep color, pine needles and blue fruits. Slate and lead pencil notes and a finish that packs a wallop.

To the barrel room we went:

Schrader T6 cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Wow. All of the Schrader wines were lovely and this one was no exception. Thomas mentioned that this was specifically from clone 6 in the To Kalon vineyard and I found it impressive and Paulliac like. Inky, deep, blue and black fruit, chalky minerals. Still closed up but clearly a powerful, stately wine built for the long haul.

Schrader “Old Sparky”, cabernet sauvignon 2005: I believe this is a mix of favorite clones from To Kalon. My personal favorite, this is already very expressive, with beautiful cabernet notes of cassis and black stone fruit, menthol and slate. Wow. Really a beautiful wine.

Schrader CCS cabernet sauvignon, 2005: So pretty – but with a steel backbone. This is a lovely wine that offers more feminine notes of red fruit, loamy earth and a floral, violet element – but again with wonderful structure and great length. Wow.

We did not taste, though I have separate notes, on Thomas Brown’s Rivers Marie pinot noir and cabernet. His Summa vineyard wines are worth seeking out and purchasing – now before there is no way to get them. Thomas is amazingly adept at it seems any and all varietals but, in my humble opinion, pinot noir is his calling.

Our next stop as we made our way back down the valley was Vineyard 29. We have been vineyard 29 fans for many years but had lost touch when the winery changed ownership. Well, the new owners not only have more fully developed the potential of this wonderful winery and vineyard, they have taken it to a brand new level. While the facility itself – and the staff – is amazingly impressive, do not let that take your focus away from the wonderful wines they are crafting there. It is a wonderful stop and the wines show equally well. Having added the Aida vineyard to their estate wine, Vineyard 29 now offers a portfolio of wines that should garner a lot of interest and reinvigorate their brand.


*+Vineyard 29 Cru, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: I did not like this wine very much. I found it thick, overcooked a bit and pruney. I believe it comes from a series of vineyards on the Rutherford bench. It is at a lower price point but really not my style of wine.

***Vineyard 29 Aida Red Wine, 1998: This instead was delicious. Still showing that autumnal, almost prune Danish element that is a signature Aida vineyard element, the cabernet fruit added blackberry, cigar tobacco and sois bois to it that made it refined and sophisticated. Very expressive and ready to drink. Very nice.

***Vineyard 29 Aida Red Wine, 2001: A cab / merlot blend (75/25 I think) this wine is also delicious and presenting itself very well today. Red jammy preserves, flowers, clove and that Graves like tobacco and minerals. Very worthy.

**+Vineyard 29, Aida zinfandel, 2003: Again, not my style of zin. For those Turley lovers out there, I am sure this will fire all of your senses. Take the pruney element of Aida and add bright zin berry fruit and you have – a pruney, hot zin! Not a bad wine, just again not what I prize in this varietal.

***+Vineyard 29 estate cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Stately. A lovely, unmistakably Napa styled cabernet sauvignon. Fruit driven, dusty, chalky tannins. Blue fruit on the palate and menthol on the long, furry finish. A beautiful wine. Candidly, way overpriced at $195.

Or final stop was with Tom Garrett, at Revana Winery. I admit to having a bit of a secondary agenda. Of course, we are fans of the Revana and were happy to visit the winery of its own accord. Our hidden motive was to squeeze a taste or two out of Tom’s Detert Family label – offering some of the oldest cab franc vines in the valley! Tom was gracious enough to pour us a little of each.

***+Revana Family cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Unmistakably a Hiedi Barrett cab. All of the tell tale signs. Good extraction, nice balance, rich, varietal fruit notes, new French oak, silky palate feel, big finish. All there. I admittedly could not differentiate this wine from many that have come before it from other wineries and other vineyards made by the same winemaker. Lovely if somewhat expected.

****Detert Family Oakville cabernet franc, 2004: Now we are having fun! A big framed, muscular wine. Delicious, succulent notes of red fruit, powdered valhrona chocolate, grilled meats and violets. Drenching, with endless depth and mineral goodness on the staining palate. This is good stuff, but it needs time.

***+Detert Family Oakville cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Round Two. Another bruiser. Chewy, dense cab fruit flavors, more floral elements and chocolate. Chalky minerals. Long, coating palate with no drop off. Big finish. Somehow more approachable than the franc, perhaps requiring a little less cellar time? Very nice indeed.


Well that was our trip. We very much enjoyed our time in the area and look forward to our next foray. And a few days of sipping beer and mineral water – hiccup!

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Wine Musings LTD: Angwin to Zahtila Day 2

Day two of our Napa trip was not in Napa at all. Instead we spent our time in the Alexander valley, visiting with three wonderful wineries. Alexander valley is becoming a hot spot for dynamite wines and deserves special attention.

Our first stop was at a winery that needs no introduction. The wines of Peter Michael Winery are storied – with no weak links in the offering. Whether we are talking Les Pavots, the various top flight chardonnays or the definitive Apres Midi sauvignon blanc, most of the PMW wines define their categories. Further, they define gracious hospitality. Many thanks to our host Victor Aul for a lovely tour and formal, sit down tasting. If ever the opportunity presents, a visit to PMW should be a focal point of any visit. To the wines:

***++Peter Michael Winery, Après Midi, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: In my humble opinion, there is no better new world sauvignon blanc. Stunning and rich, possessing varietal qualities of grapefruit, guava and anise but with much more richness and depth than typical. Bright but with a fullness on the palate and a lovely lingering finish. One of the best wines I had all day. Wonderful.

***Peter Michael Winery, La Carriere Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: Lovely. Rich and sophisticated. No surprise that this is very reminiscent of the Aubert chardonnays. Maybe I should say vice versa? Linseed, lemon custard, a touch of sage and candied orange zest on the nose. More of the same with deep minerality and spice on the coating palate. Lovely balance. Long, mineral-y finish. Dynamite.

***+Peter Michael Winery, La Belle Cote Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: A Personal favorite from this chardonnay stable. Brighter, perhaps better suited for aging, this wine reminds me of a dynamite Puligny Montrachet 1st growth. Stately. Bright citrus and orange blossom notes jump from the glass, married to a touch of petrol and a hint of nutmeg. The palate offers more citrus with slate and a touch of vanilla. Lovely and integrated, though a bit more bracing. Good stuff indeed.

***+Peter Michael Winery, Les Pavots, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: This wine surprised me a bit. Deep color to the rim, this young, mountain cab is nonetheless effusive from the glass. Notes of black and red berry fruit, church incense and bramble waft right up and assault the sense. Wow. The palate is a bit thick and unctuous, dare I say fat? It offers more black fruit, tar and bakers chocolate. Further along I am disappointed by a somewhat short finish. The wine tips the scales at over 15% alcohol! Almost seems like too much ripeness. I find this wine a bit over the top and I typically expect more from this wine.

Our second stop was Medlock Ames winery. It is nothing short of groovy. The honesty and enthusiasm that just gushes from Ames Morison, as he talks with you about his winery, cannot help but be contagious. Of course it doesn’t hurt that his wines are wonderful and expertly made. For a small winery, they have all the new doo-dads, with a gravity flow system, fancy crusher de-stemmers and stainless steel tanks, a chai that you might think was at Ch Lafite…the works. The big difference is that everything here is organic – down to the sheep and llama that keep the weeds down and the algae that grows on their pond functioning as fertilizer. I won’t rate the wines as they were from the barrel – but I will say that I bought some finished wines and signed up to receive more. This is a wonderful winery that deserves attention and support. We loved the time we spent there.

Medlock Ames Estate Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Sample): Delicious. Black stone fruit driven, with mocha espresso notes and chalky minerals. New french oak adds some vanilla and baking spices. Great depth on the palate and deftly balanced. I’m a buyer.

Medlock Ames Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Sample): My notes for the cabernet are similar to the merlot, with the addition of cassis fruit notes and a lovely black licorice element. Asian spice. Body is firm and dense, suggesting staying power. Yum.

Our last stop is a favorite: Verite Winery. I have commented on this venue and the wines in the past. They are stand outs from this area. Brian Baker was kind enough not only to meet us at the winery but bring along a bottle of the 2004 Anakota Montana bottling (I think)! All of the Verite wines are outstanding and deserve the accolades they regularly receive.

***++Verite, La Joie, 1998: The wine that started it all for me and still a crowd pleaser. Very bordelaise in style and structure – I would have guessed 1990 Gruaud Larose if pressed. Lovely red and black fruit, herbs and soil elements add complexity and sophistication to this wine. Long and still strong – a wine to savor.

***++Verite La Muse, 1998: Strong out of the gate. Surprisingly firm for a merlot based wine, it still offers up velvety lavender, espresso grind and red fruit notes. The palate offers a molten chocolate essence to accompany the fruit, with grilled meats and herbs. Yum.

**++Verite La Joie, 2000: Perhaps the weakest of the wines presented. Compared to the 01 and 02 versions of this wine, it simply had less stuffing, perhaps even a bit thin mid palate. Black brambly fruit and minerals are offered, if a bit reduced in stature. Finish lingers but does not offer the same level of intensity as the other wines being poured.

***+Verite, La Muse, 2001: Also surprisingly evolved, but still a wonderful mouthful of wine. Chocolate covered berry fruit, grilled meats, a touch of sois bois. Coating and delicious. Long, with firm, drying tannins. Serious.

****Verite La Joie, 2002: A stately wine, if perhaps reserved for cellaring just now. Great depth and harmony of flavor, showing mostly black stone fruit and chalk, pine needles and black licorice. Bottomless. Great Paulliac like in my opinion. Righteous.

****Verite, La Desir, 2002: Lovely and sophisticated. Tar, bramble, smoke and velvety crushed, berry fruit are evoked from this deeply colored, delicious wine. Hard to imagine this improving, but I am sure that it will. Superb integration of new French oak and deft balance. Great now, great later.

**Anakota, Montana, 2004: My first go with this wine. I am not a big fan. A bit over extracted and stewed. Thick licorice flavors and some tar. Almost Amarone like density. Not my cup of tea…or wine.

Wine Musings LTD: From Angwin to Zahtila

Following are my notes from my recent Napa trip in April. Over all, I note a few trends, some heartening while others disturbing.

1) The general quality of Napa Valley wines continues to improve. Really dynamite stuff.
2) The trend to overripe, high alcohol wines is creating heady, flabby wines that will not age nearly as well. Balance seems to have been lost in translation.
3) There is a belief among many wine makers that your wine MUST cost above $100 a bottle to be considered worth buying. Wow. What happened?
4) With some exception, there is a greater than ever push for folks who are visiting to buy wine directly. These winery visits are becoming more like Tupperware parties. This is not about educating qualified prospects about the brand with longer term brand loyalty the key metric…this is about sales right now regardless of retail wine avails. Yuck.

On to the wines.

Our first stop was Zahtila Vineyards, in Calistoga at the top of the Silverado Trail. The wines are of merit, particularly the cab they make from the Beckstoffer vineyard.

**+Zahtila Vineyards Chardonnay, 2006: Newly bottled. Very Napa valley. Bright, tropical fruits, candied citrus zest, good acids, integrated, mineral finish. A nice palate refresher.

***Zahtila Vineyards Dry Creek Zinfandel, 2004: From the Oddone vineyard. Lovely Dry Creek fruit cloaked in lavish American new oak. The oak is most noticeable on the front of the palate, where it creates a caffe latte like entry. Then the red, spiced Dry Creek fruit takes over. Nice mouth feel and integration. I am not in zin buying mode but bought 3 bottles. Nice.

**+Zahtila Vineyards Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel, 2004: From estate vines. A more Napa, black fruit, brambly style of zin. Over 15% alch. Nice, though not the kind of wine I tend to like.

***+Zahtila Vineyards Beckstoffer Vineyards Georges III, 2003: A Lovely wine. Excellent concentration and depth. Black berry and stone fruit, Rutherford dust, good minerlaity. The oak integrates nicely without ever dominating. Long, sweet finish. I like this wine. At $48, compared to other cabs tried, it is a steal.

Our next stop is Failla, also along the Silverado Trail. The tasting “house” is far out and I would recommend a visit. It is fun and different. Of course the wines are great – in fact, I would say that on the whole the wines poured were amongst the best of the trip.

***++Failla Keefer Ranch Chardonnay, 2004: A significant improvement from the 2003 vintage for this wine in my opinion. Wonderful notes lemon chiffon, Anjou pear and white flowers. Full, lush mouthfeel. Acids are balanced and not quite as brisk as the 2003. Slate. Long finish. Like a really good Chasagne Montrachet 1er cru.

***++Failla Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 2005: I really liked this wine quire a bit. Deep, lush pinot notes of black cherry, green tea, cola and baking spices. Not fat, but full. Creamy mouthfeel. Long, peppery finish. Yum.

***++Failla Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir, 2005: Another winner. Not quite as flamboyant as the Sonoma Coast. More focused and intense. Much more structured, this wine offers great complexity already and will reward time in the cellar. Big with great bones.

***Failla Phoenix Ranch Syrah, 2004: Very nice, if a bit of a recipe wine. 50% whole cluster, 50% berry, this wine is aged in 1/3 new oak. Delicious if a bit expected. Very varietal fruit with the whole cluster providing grilled meats and clove to the mix. Full and pleasant. I think I have been drinking too much syrah!

The last stop on day 1 was Cardinale, where we sampled both the Cardinale and the Lokoya wines in a lovely setting, courtesy of the always generous Brian Baker. I will say that the Lokoya wines were indeed very special and very much worth seeking out – note that the winery “MSRP” is a heady $190 a bottle but the wines can be had for as little (!) as $130 retail. The Cardinale wines were also lovely, a blend of the above vineyards, stags leap fruit and merlot, but at the same asking price seem to be a questionable QPR (quality to price ratio) buy.

***++Lokoya Diamond Mountain, 2003: Super. Lovely balance, nuanced nose of bakers chocolate, black fruit and chalk. Wonderfully integrated, smooth mouthfeel, offering casis, black fruit, chocolate and a touch of sois bois. Stately.

****Lokoya Howell Mountain, 2003: Really very lovely. More pronounced aromatics of cigar box, red and black brambly fruit, a touch of tar. Lush mouthfeel with excellent concentration, adding mocha elements. Firm finish with sweet, coating tannins. Elegant. Amy’s favorite.

****+Lokoya Mt. Veeder, 2003: Wow. Great intensity and structure. Blue black fruits, chalk, minerals, pepper, violets. Great depth on the palate and perfect balance. Makes me think of Paulliac. Will reward aging. The purebred of the group. Powerful.

***+Cardinale, 2003: A very good effort. The wine offers mature, perfectly ripe, focused red fruit, chocolate, tobacco, black pepper and smoke. Full, lush coating palate with a pleasing licorice element and a note of minerals. Long, furry, juicy finish. Delicious.

****Cardinale, 2004: Stellar. All of the same characteristics as the 2003, this wine offers even more focus and concentration. The finish is very firm making this a candidate for the cellar.

Wine Musings LTD: My Dinner with Robb

My dinner with Robb (March 2007)

OK. Perhaps it should be OUR dinner with Robb. And Drew (Nieporent). At the Tribeca Grill. Wow. It was truly a memorable event – not only because the wines were tremendous but because it was just so great to see and hang out with everyone. I love how wine acts as an excuse for good friends (new and old) to get together and enjoy each other’s company.

Wine of Merit: ****++Zind-Humbrecht Gewurz Goldert VT 1990: In my opinion, this was not only the first served, but the best wine of the night. Ethereal. Lithe. Refreshing. Perfect sweetness. Citrus, white flowers, honey. Extremely rare –and extremely worth it.

****+Sine Qua Non “The Boot”” (also known as The Good Girl) 2000: Stunning. Flamboyant but at the same time serious. A roussanne, chardonnay, viognier mix, I think. So much going on here – almost defies description. Rich, complex, deep, long. Very special. To quote Melissa Rice, “This one should have been named the Hussy!” Voluptuous, with a come hither quality!

****Sine Qua Non, “The Hussy” 2000: Also lovely. Perhaps not quite as rich as the Boot, but equally interesting. 100% roussanne, from 2 different vineyards down in the central coast. This wine is instead very easy to describe. Warm apple pie, with cinnamon and a touch of clove. Wow. Intense aromatics and lovely mouth feel. Another winner.

****+Eric Texier, Cote Rotie Ville Vignes, 2001: Magnificent. The wine that La Chapelle hopes to make in every vintage. A true meal in a glass, with nicoise olives, tar, bacon (oy!), dark, black berry fruit, minerals…the works. The palate is wonderful and integrated, perfectly balanced, not staining and overwhelming. The wine is almost feminine and offers much more sophistication than it does brawn. A wine to look for.

***+Pax, Cuvee Keltie, Syrah, 2003: Perhaps the polar opposite of the Texier. Syrah as jet fuel. Huge, jammy, fat berry nose, with grilled meat and pepper. Tagine spices. Branche Marocian! This wine is almost a cartoon – an exaggerated representation of what syrah can be. Very Aussie in style. Lush, staining and powerful. Maybe time will coax some nuance from it –right now it is yummy but very obvious.

****++Ducru Beacalliou. St. Julien, 1982: Masterful. Perfect Bordeaux, in my opinion. Complex, nuanced red fruit, earth, cassis and cigar box. Perfect weight on the palate, long sweet finish. Surprisingly fresh for a wine made when I graduated high school. Wonderful. I could drink this wine every day and not tire of it.

****Dominus, Rutherford, 1994: One must give credit. This wine is seductive. Complex, loamy earth, red fruit, saddle leather, black truffled olive oil. Violets. More St. Emillion than Pomerol to my taste. Serious, great mouth filling wine. Still very much balanced – maturing in a wonderfully complex way. I love this wine.

***Numanthia, Toro 2003: Very nice though in difficult company. Very international in style – a recipe wine. Does Michel Rolland consult here? I bet he does. Deep color and extract. Lush, merlot like red, plumy fruit. Very showy. Thick, unctuous, palate staining wine. Long, very firm finish. I bet Parker loves this wine. A fun wine to enjoy.

***+Montevetrine, Le Pergola Torte 2003: This was a wine that was hard to evaluate. The nose was somewhat muted, offering red fruit and a focused element of anise seed, with a toasted note (mandel brot?). The palate offered more red fruit, white pepper and good minerality, though again pretty demure. Middle weight mouth feel. Very good, though perhaps better when one can focus on it a bit more.

Wine Musings LTD: Polaner Selections Tasting


First, I did not taste the majority of the wines. As I was not there to buy a portfolio, I could cherry pick…and cherry pick I did. I will tell you this: pricing for good wine is getting ridiculous. The wines I truly cared for where often north of $100. I don’t understand it. I will be spending more money with crush pad and much less with delicious but unproven wineries like Revana, Bucella, Amuse Bouche, Merus, Realm and the like which come out with first vintage wines at $100+. It is not appropriate. That said…

I did try the 2004 Merus, and found it wonderful. Great depth, extraction and grip. Mmmm. Black fruit and minerals, fairly open knit and generous (a signature of the vintage). Yummy now and I am guessing yummy for the next 8-10 years. Not sure it will get better, but it will probably mellow and become more nuanced. Given that this is a wine made in someone’s garage out in Napa valley, it should be congratulated.

Similar are my impressions of Realm. They offered a barrel sample of the 2005 wines, which will bottle this spring. The ToKalon, Dr. Crane and Farella vineyards. The former two are spectacular. Really special. Wines to look out for. Kudos.

I also had the pleasure of tasting the 2004 Phillip Togni. Again, wonderfully, open, jammy but still intense and deep. Reminds me of the 1994 vintage. Yum.

I have to say, Larkmead is making lovely wines, albeit Merlot. I liked there 2002 wines and loved the 2004 Firebelle Merlot. Really great. Deep, red and black fruit, mocha, violets. Maybe lavender. Delish!

A new wine, made by Thomas Brown. 2004 Maybach cabernet – from the family that made the car back in the Father Land. Made from a vineyard on the Turnbull property. This wine is wonderful as well – and given the low production, a wine you will not see unless you order it direct from the winery. I would if I were you – or me! I cannot think of a Thomas Brown wine I do not like.

Similar comments about the Driknward Peschon cabernet from 2004. Supple, ripe, deep, excellent depth. Furry tannins. Yes!

Lastly, the wines from Black Sears, long known for the Howell mountain fruit, rock. The 2004 zin was stately – reminding me of the old Storybook zins I used to faun over. Bramble, balck mountain fruit, great balance, nicely integrated oak. The 2003 cab was also surprisingly good, very Dunn like – deep, purple, blueberry and blackberry – maybe snozberry (!). Nice…

Other US wines that merit special mention are the Brookman 2004 cab, the Ojai white hawk syrah, the Pax alder spring syrah, Arnot Roberts Alder Springs and the Copain Eaglepoint ranch syrah (this whole cluster fermentation thing has to stop – the wines are all getting pretty much made in a cookie cutter way), the 2004 Wolf family cab . All of these wines merit buying and drinking.

What else stood out for me? The CNdP 2005 wines rock. The Dom. De la Janasse wines were deep, flavorful and much more interesting than most of the US wines, especially the VV. The 2004 Artadi rioja pagos viejos ruled the roost. Very, very special. Deep plum, saddle leather, garrigue, mint. Nice. I tried some older wines from Lopez de Heredia. They tasted…old. The pinot noir from Ch. De La Tour from 2005 was a true pinot noir vin de garde. The Clos de Vougeot VV was Righteous.

Wine Musings Vol#31

From notes taken March, 2007:

Wine of Merit: ***++Petites Maisons Las Madres Vineyard Syrah, 2004: This is a Crushpad wine – the place where I am making White Hawk vineyard syrah. I have barrel tasted the Las Madres syrah and found it less appealing. Tonight, in this bottle, it is downright yummy. Redolent with red, plumy fruit, Asian spices, pie crust and cardamom, this wine is the perfect accompaniment to a snowy day by the fire. Juicy, maybe even lush, with a touch of roasted red pepper. Great balance, great integration…perhaps a bit more evolved than I would have guessed, with fine, almost sweet tannins. Feminine and nuanced. I could drink the whole bottling in one sitting…In fact, I finished the glass just while typing this note. Lovely! To think, it cost $13 a pop to make this wine. It is a downright crime!

***Snowden “Lost Vineyard”, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: I believe this is their second label and as such priced very competitively…in the high 20s…As such this is a screaming bargain, and probably endemic of the quality of the 2004 vintage. Lovely, nuanced cabernet nose, with black and red fruits, truffle, earth and mint. Deep and delicious. Palate is layered offering more of the same, licorice and minerals. Fine, integrated finish. I would have guessed a MUCH more expensive wine. If you can buy this at less than $30, make it your everyday wine and thank me later.

***++Gary Farrell, Starr Ridge vineyard, pinot noir, 2004: Gary Farrell and pinot noir. Doug Nalle and zinfandel. Certain things go together. I have been a big fan of Gary’s since his Davis Bynum days. His wines are always very consistent, true to the RRV and delicious. Not overblown, over extracted or in your face. Just right. This is no exception. Lovely bing cherry, baking spices, cream, cola and green tea. Just the right amount of oak. Lively. Perhaps just a tad light on the palate, though time may add some depth. Great integration. My only gripe is that his wines are starting to get pricey. I used to buy them for under $20. And ice cream cost a nickel I guess…

*++Deloach, Russian River Valley pinot noir, 2005: That’s right…2005. Deloach has changed hands and now Greg LaFolette, he of Flowers fame, makes the wine there. The Carolina Wine Co proclaimed this a no brainer – so I bought a bottle at a wine store to try. Well – don’t believe the hype. Not particularly good, this wine offers ripe, almost preserve like plum and cherry…and maybe some chocolate. Palate is flabby and no finish to note. It tastes mass produced…and probably is. Of course, it is so young, maybe the issue is required bottle age…but I doubt it. Pass.

***+Salomon, Undhof Riesling, 1993: Austrian dry Riesling. I dig it. An Amanti vino recommendation, this wine is surprisingly fresh and delicious. Pale straw in color. White peaches, petrol, white flowers on the nose. Mission fig, melon and a touch of honey on the lithe but full palate, along with nice minerality and dried herbs. The finish is long and offers some spice. The label says Library, suggesting a late release? Nice!

Wine Musings Vol#30

The big 30! Now we're getting somewhere! Notes taken March, 2007:

Wine of Merit: ****++Kongsgaard, The Judge, Chardonnay, 2003: Guilty! Ok – so this is a wine that cannot get more hyped – 99 RP points, 100 cases, $400 a bottle in some misguided retail establishments. And I will admit that this was my first go with the Judge. Initially, I found this wine not very forthcoming and tightly wound. The palate was the give away that this is truly a monumental wine. Multi-layered, intense, suave and refined, it took some concentration to recognize everything that was going on – peaches, blood orange, herbs, slate – it was all there. Further, as the wine sat in the glass and aired – more of the intensity of the palate showed through. Buttered popcorn, lavender, yellow peaches, white flowers. Still, it was the palate that tantalized me with its length, depth, reserved power and sophistication. The finish only amplified the palate. I have only had Le Montrachet once, and it had this kind of depth and concentration. A wine to talk about.

***++Ducru Beaucalliou, St. Julien, 1998: I love Ducru. It is the statesman of 2nd growth Bordeaux. Wonderfully consistent, powerful but still somewhat reserved. Offering sense of place but still a firm house signature. This wine does not disappoint. Still brooding, it is showing red fruit, herbs, earth and minerals. Firm, well integrated palate. Firm, fine finish. Drink it now to enjoy what a very good, young Bordeaux has to offer or let it sit and mellow and add some depth and nuance. Either way you cannot lose. Great wine for the vintage.

***+Stags Leap, SLV Vineyard, cabernet, 1996: Really lovely. More mature and open knit, this wine also shows great SLD sense of place, with its red fruit, bramble, minerals and leather. The palate adds chocolate and pepper on the finish. Palate coating on entry and even all the way to the finish. Ready to drink now – a wine at its peak.

****Ornellaia, Bolgheri, DOC Rosso Superiore,1993: I have to admit to loving Ornellaia. I have loved it for many years (my first experience being the 1988). It did not receive the hype early on as it was a Bordeaux blend from Italy and not Sangiovese based – but I remember trying it for the first time in the early 90s and being blown away. This was not a heralded vintage, but for Ornellaia, probably should have been. The wine is now showing dark, black cherry fruit, chocolate, some raisin and kirsch liquor that is nothing short of sexy. Palate is still firm and ripe, with a sweet, fine tannic finish. This wine is simply wonderful vintage in and vintage out. Of course, now scores have caught up and the wine has become pricey…but it is still a worth it and a wonderful exhibition of what Bolgheri can do with French varietals.

**+Andrew Will, Klipsun vineyard, 2003: 60/40 Merlot/Cab blend. I tend to like AW wines very much. This particular wine is a bit angular and lean. Aromas of grilled meats and soy, along with black cherry fruit nuances and spice box. Palate is a bit zippy, not as full and coating as most AW wines I have enjoyed. Finish is puckery and a bit out of balance. Admittedly I let most of my AW wines age a bit and this is a young ‘un. Still, it doesn’t seem to have the stuffing or the balance to age for very long. Buy more? Probably not. As a side note, Andrew Will has let the vineyard contract expire with Klipsun and no longer makes this wine.

Wine Musings Vol#29

From notes taken March, 2007:
Wine(s) of Merit: ****+Chateau La Fluer de Gay, Pomerol, 1989: Wow. This was our Valentine’s day choice…and if I only had one wine to drink for the rest of my life, this wine would have to be in serious consideration. Still young and somewhat brooding, this wine has great power and great finesse at the same time. Deep, dark to the rim, the wine shows great dark cherry, plum and anise notes, with valhrona chocolate, molasses, sage and perfumed violets. Coating and lush, the wine still has great backbone across the entire palate, showing more plum, chocolate, minerals and tobacco. Strong, fine tannin finish. Amy’s comment” “I don’t think this is what the guy in sideways was talking about when he said I am not drinking any fucking merlot!” Ditto.

****+Vietti, Barbaresco Masseria, 2001: OK. I feel like Steve Martin from the Jerk now. You know, when he says, “All I need is this paddle game. That’s all. And this ashtray. Ok I need the paddle ball game and the ashtray…”. I now admit to needing the La Fluer de Gay AND this Vietti barbaresco as the only wines to drink for the rest of my life…Yum. Perfumed, red fruit, truffles, pine needles, minerals and cigar tobacco. Wow. Lovely. Great depth and nuance. Palate offers more, with an emphasis on minerality and some saddle leather and mocha. Truly a dynamite wine. I think the thing I like about it is that it is so clearly Italian, really showing sense of place, but with great purity and focus as well. Bravo!

***Hitching Post, Cork Dancer, Santa Barbara, pinot noir, 2004: Lovely, warm climate pinot. I prefer the RRV pinots, but this had nice, slightly pruney black cherry fruit, bramble and white pepper. Palate was racy and bright, with nice red fruit and tar through the finish. Not over extracted, with nice integration. Very nice.

****Flowers, Andreen Gale Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2001: Wow. Very nice indeed. Great harmony, balance and integration from this cooler climate pinot. Elegant with just the right lushness. I did not dig this wine on release finding it angular – which was disappointing, given the success that Camp Meeting Ridge gas gad for other wine makers. Well, those corners have smoothed themselves out. Great fruit, weight and palate coating viscosity. Dynamite and hitting its stride.

**++Radio Couteau, Alberigi, pinot noir, 2004: Hmmm…while this wine has the provenance, I find it a bit awkward. Much like many of the newer styled pinots, it has IMHO too much extract and probably too much heat. Maybe too much of just about everything. Which, in the end, may make for an interesting and nuanced wine as it ages. For now, the wine is a big mouthful of wine with cab like firmness on the finish and red and black fruit, brown spice and vanilla that bowls you over. Nice…not my cup of tea.

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma merlot, 1992: Nice, old school vino. Maturing color, this wine offers mature, overripe plum, red fruit and mocha, ,with a hint of violets. More red fruit, spice and chocolate on the palate, which is losing some of its vibrancy but is still lush and palate coating. Finish is fairly firm, perhaps a bit too given the advanced nature of the wine. Smoke ‘em now.

Wine Musings Vol#28


From notes taken Febuary, 2007:

Wine of Merit: ***++Fritz Haag Riesling Braunberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese, 2005: Killer wine from a dynamite vintage. White flowers, lichee, lemon curd. Sweeet! Very primal still, will add complexity and nuance with age. But who could possibly wait?

**++Beringer Bancroft Ranch, Merlot, 1992: A true tragedy. This wine was nothing short of magnificent 2 years ago. It has now slipped over the peak. The nose offers up lush red fruit, maybe a bit stewed, not much else. The palate is still lively but a shadow of its former self. I have one more bottle and I will open it with low expectations.

***++Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock, shiraz, 1995: I have had inconsistent notes on this wine. This last bottle was nothing short of spectacular. Perfect, mature syrah fruit, it has added weight and complexity to go beyond the syrupy, blackberry fruit that often drives these aussie wines. I gave it lots of air and it did seriously well.

***White Cottage Ranch, Sangiovese, 1996: This, on the other hand, is still a ton o fun. Ripe red and blackberry fruit, saddle leather, spice and black pepper. Not youthful, but yummy. Amy digs it.

***Chasseur, Dutton Ranch Shop Block, chardonnay, 1998: Funny wine. At first this wine seemed oxidized to me. The color had an almost sauterne golden hue. The wine had a bit of a funky, muted nose to start off with. Later, it opened up to show top flight Riesling-like white flowers and Anjou pear, some tobacco and slate. Excellent minerality, this was a crowd favorite. Go figure.

***Blackford, Sonoma Coast chardonnay, 1998: Made by Dave Cronin, the winemaker over at Beuhler. Really nice, handcrafted chard. Corton notes of linseed, buttered popcorn, lemon custard. Zesty palate with lively acids. Integrated vanilla oak and spice. Still pretty form for the age and vintage. Nice.

Wine Musings LTD: All Roads Lead to Rhone


From notes taken January, 2007:


All Roads Lead to Rhone:

Following is a brief summary of my tasting notes from our Syrah and Syrah-ish wine tasting held Saturday, January 14th. It was a wonderful event, probably the best wines we have served as a whole at one of these things, and I am appreciative of all those who could attend. Wines were served blind:

Pre-flight wines:

***++Didier Dageneau Silex, 1996: Lovely if unusual. Fully mature, deep yellow hue, lots going on. Dried pineapple, honeyed truffle oil and gooseberry were some of the descriptors being thrown out there. I buy it all. Not your father’s chardonnay. A serious white with great, full mouth feel and generous complexity.

**++Linda Domas Salience, 2005: Hard to believe it is the same grape. Lovely, surprisingly restrained, almost fragile. Great, tropical fruit notes and a light, lithe palate. Wonderful for a hot, summer day and some light food. Yum.

First Flight:

**++Henschke Keyneton, 1986: Mature and very much ready to drink. Bricking at the rim. Red fruit, grilled meats, pepper, some herbs. Firm finish, light mid palate. Very fine.

***Ch. Beaucastel, CNdP, 1988: Also very mature in color and nose, iodine, baked blueberry pie, a little racy on the palate, morer fruit, herbs and asian spices. Very firm on the finish. Yummy!

****Sean Thackery Orion, 1987: Special. Dark concentrated wine. Chocolate, mint, exotic spices, blackberry preserves. Velvety, delicious. Killer Diller.

DQ: Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 1989: Corked. Palate was mature and inviting, with red fruit and evolving complexities as it sat in the glass – but the nose was musty. I have had much better bottles.

Second Flight:

****++Sean Thackery, Orion 1995: Wow! One of the wines of the day, and there were some great wines. Licorice, blackberry, pine needles, anise seed. Great concentration and purity. No drop off at all, though sweet integration and balance. A serious wine.

****Ch Rayas, CNdP Reserve, 1990: A heralded wine. Delicious, animal, raisins, raspberry. Maturer and a bit demure. Nicely integrated. Lovely.

***++Penfolds Bin 920, 1990: Much better than the rep. Mautring, rose petal, red fruit, briar, tar. I liked this wine very much, even in its showier company. A stately wine.

****Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 1995: Served out of order by mistake. Wow. This is more like it. Really wonderful. Huge, black pepper, black fruit, mint and a wonderful lavender note. Big depth, a powerful wine. Firm but integrated all the way through. Great wine.

Third Flight:

****++Sine Qua Non. Against The Wall, 1996: Believe the hype, baby! Jeepers. Tar, violets, insane, huge concentration, blackberry preserves, pepper – amazing. Coating, intense, perfectly integrated. My number 2 wine of the day.

****++Clarendon Hills, Astralis, 1998: From strength to strength. While the SQN was a bit more out there, the Astralis was a bit more reserved…but had all of the same elements, perhaps adding a minerality and depth the SQN did not quite achieve. It will reward further patience, but is tantalizing right now. Hard to rank this below the SQN, perhaps only because of the later wine’s approachability right now. In my opinion, both are 96+ point wines.

***++Ch La Nerthe, CNdP, Cuvee Cadettes, 1994: A bit out of order and in strong company. Still, a lovely wine. CNdP notes of herbs, iodine, red fruit and smoke. Nice minerals, good solid concentration and a firm palate, though of course not the same kind of grip as the other wines of the flight. Super.

***++Chapoutier, La Sizeranne, 1994: Like the La Nerthe, a bit overwhelmed, though it acquitted itself surprisingly well. Delicious, showing great fruit purity, velvety black fruit, depth and minerals. Floral. I loved this wine and thought it very worthy.

Fourth Flight:

All of these wines were huge and really wonderful.

*****Guigal, Cote Rotie, La Landonne, 2001: Wow. Speechless. Great wine. Hard to detract anything at all from it. Animal elements, violets, black pepper. Great depth, great purity, great concentration. Out there for around $200 and a bargain at that price. My wine of the day.

***++Behrens and Hitchcock, Alder Springs Syrah, Hommage to Ed, 2001: Very yummy and approachable. Made in the B&H way. Big, open, velvety, maybe a bit blousy in comparison – still great. Very varietal, with black fruit, smoke, earth, flowers. No mistaking this wine.

****+Penfolds, Grange, 2001: I expected to not get much from this wine – but instead found it of course youthful but still approachable. Big and thick, some greenness from the American oak, spice, great, deep berry fruit. Brooding. Stately –maybe even majestic. A great Australian wine that will mature into a truly great wine experience.

****Ch Beaucastel, 2001: Very worthy. No mistaking this wine either – with its tell tale French herbs, iodine, animal, truffles and great red fruit concentration. I love this wine and cellar beaucastel hoping every vintage comes together like this one. Worth seeking out.

Mystery wine:

***++CUNE, Vine Real Reserva, 1950: Dave guessed Country, region and varietal –which in and of itself is impressive. No one was within 30 years of the vintage. Surprisingly youthful, it boasted mature red fruit, a burgundian earthy complexity, candied orange zest and fruited tea notes. Racy palate, good acids, not deep but consistent and integrated. A dynamite wine.

Wine Musings Vol#27

From notes taken August, 2006:
Wine of Merit: ***++Robert Ampeau, Volnay Santenot, 1er cru, 1993: To know Robert Ampeau is to dig his whole approach to wine. He holds his wine until he decides it is ready. Maybe 5 years, maybe 10, maybe more. Nice, if you can pull it off. This is the current vintage of this wine! And, as usual, he is right on the money. Delicious, sophisticated, multi layered. Shows a bit of barnyard and tobacco, but plenty of cherry red fruit, cardamom, cola and a nuance of Marco Polo tea (do you know it? It is made by Mariage Freres and worth seeking out) . Oak is nicely integrated, adding some chai spice and vanilla to the palate and the sweet, fine tannins on the finish. Showing beautifully and will drink for at least another 3 to 5 years for sure.


**Campbell Rutherglen Muscat, NV: Hot! Hot! Hot! 17.5% alch. This is a syrupy, port styled wine made from Muscat in the land down under. Amber hue. More of a Vin Santo experience, it offers a hot, alcohol-driven nose, with nutty, white raisin and vanilla stewed peaches on the palate. Astringent finish with some spice. This is clearly why Mad Max was so mad. Dip your biscotti and say, “Gidday!”

***++Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard cabernet, 2001: Stately. I enjoy this old style, mountain cab. This varietal driven wine offers deep, mountain red fruit, cassis, minerals and hints of tobacco. Firm and structured, everything is there, including some well integrated NFO, but in reserve. In fact, it has a vin de garde quality that will reward cellaring. It reminds me of a Californian Leoville Las Cases – or possibly a slightly more modern Diamond Creek VH. A wine of conviction. I dig it.

***MJ Dry Creek Sangiovese, 2002: Made by the Unti family, of zinfandel fame. I admit to a soft place in my heart for Dry Creek fruit. Wonderful purity and elegance. The Volnay of Sonoma. This does not disappoint. Initially very red, cherry fruit and spice, the wine settles into a more sophisticated saddle leather, clove and mocha signature. Palate is spicy, with more red fruit and zippy acids. Long, spicy, sweet finish. Yummy.

***+Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley Cabernet Reserve, 1992: Very well crafted. Delicious, varietal, still very fresh, good depth, balance and concentration, good length on the finish. A very good wine overall that has benefited from aging. I honestly believe that the Alexander valley is underappreciated for its ability to deliver excellent cabernet sauvignon. I have always liked the Silver Oak bottling (yes, it’s true!) and think the Verite wines benefit from this appellation as well.

**Bedell Cellars, Reserve Merlot, 2001: From the North Fork of Long Island. I wanted to like this wine. Not a personal favorite though over all not bad. A wine by numbers kinda wine. What they meant in Sideways when they were dissing Merlot. Mocha, plum fruit, some minerals, pretty blousy. I can just see a bunch of folks tasting this wine and saying, “Smooth!” Moving on.

*+Nero di Vite, Caniette, 2000: There is a story to this wine. First it is from the Marche, as is yours truly. Secondly, one of the owners sent me a bottle when it was released back in the day and I found it delicious. Not super sophisticated but yummy – a poor man’s Caprai 25 anni - exactly what you would hope for in a Rosso Piceno. As it turns out it is imported to the US so I bought a case. The wine I bought here is a disaster. Unbalanced, searingly tannic – it is a shame. The ripe, plump red fruit is there but the palate is a mess. Maybe the imported wine is different? Maybe a bad batch? Who knows. Che tragedia!

Wine Musings Vol#26

From notes taken August, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ***++Bodegas El Nido, Clio 2003: Wow! Sexy. Deep, unctuous, lush red wine from Spain. A mix of cab and monastrell, I would have guessed Aussie shiraz if hard pressed, though the fruit tends to be more of the red variety than black. Still, this wine is brazenly fruit forward, round and delicious. There is no question that it lacks sophistication and finesse, but I am pretty sure that it is not really going for that anyway. Plenty of deeply toasted oak –I’m guessing American – this wine is like dessert…milk chocolate, mocha trending toward espresso, red chewy fruit, cinnamon, licorice, full, palate staining, soft, sweet tannins. I am sure it will be good in a few years but I am also sure that it will simply mellow, not gain in complexity. In an odd way, it reminds me of an over the top Paolo Bea Sagrantino at half the price. Drink it now and apologize to no one. Fun.

***Oakville Ranch cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Yummy – last bottle. Pre- Miner Family / Lewis split up. The wines have never been as good since. This wine has hit perfect maturity, perhaps just starting to fall off. Very Stags Leap. Lush, round, delicious, red fruit, bramble with SLD minerals, earth and depth. Touch of tomato paste sweetness that is not off putting at all. Palate is full and offers good depth. Resolved finish. Smoke ‘em now and enjoy.

**++Milz, Laurentiushof Riesling Halbtrocken "180", 2005: Sah-weet! Lovely, inexpensive QBA. Lichee, guava, fresh and spicy on the nose. Slightly under ripe pineapple notes, along with Asian spices and Anjou pear on the bright, zingy palate. Racy finish. Ya Vol!

***+Easton Estate zinfandel, Shenandoah valley, 1998: I typically find Amador zins a bit pruney and hot. Not this one. Big, round, lots of crushed, black fruit, some raisin, but more chocolate and bramble. Lush, peppery palate with black fruit and yes, licorice root! Finish is sweet and long. Time has mellowed it a bit, though it is not fading or, worse, hollowing out. Amy likes it, so it is a winner!

***++Verite, 1998: The Truth! This wine is very delicious. Merlot based – I believe this would later become the “Le Muse” bottling. From the Sonoma side of Mt. Helena, this is as good as Sonoma cab gets. Very Bordeaux like in structure and flavor profile. Complex, with elements of red fruit, tobacco, truffles and earth. Cigar box. Really super nice. Perhaps, if I had to quibble, not as full on the mid palate as the nose might suggest at first blush, though it adds nice minerals and some mocha and black fruit. Amazing for the vintage. Easily a 4 star wine in a very good vintage. Surprisingly tight finish. Pomerol in Sonoma. True That!

***+Two Hands Bella’s Garden Shiraz, 2004: The Violet Beauregard of wines (think Willy Wonka). Typical, over the top, huge blueberry bomb of a wine. I suppose one should appreciate it for its amazing purity of fruit and surprisingly focused, clean signature. Some lavender, slate and perhaps pink peppercorns add nuance, but I am being kind…this is all about the ripe, luscious, juicy blueberry. Palate is full and coating, the finish firm, offering what seems like a touch of American oak greenness. Flamboyant.

Wine Musings Vol#25

From notes taken July, 2006:
Wine of Merit: ***Siduri Van de Kamp Vineyard pinot noir, 1996: From 2X magnum. I had fallen into and out of love with Siduri pinot noir over the years. Adam and Diana Lee are about the nicest people in the world and care a great deal about they product the create. But the wines seemed to start out strong and then become awkward and angular and I stopped cellaring them a few years ago. Well, it is time to re-think the strategy, This wine is surprisingly fresh and fruity. Lovely black cherry, spice box, cola and green tea notes. The palate is full and bright, showing more black/bing cherry, red licorice, lavender and cream. Very good integration through to the firm but sweet finish. Lovely.


***+Domaine l Aiguelière, Cote Ruosse, 1995: What’s Up Languedoc? This wine has always been a meal in a glass, often too much of a good thing. A previous bottle had suggested some mellowing so I cracked one. This was still very youthful and expressive, but more integrated and fruit forward than in the past. Still showing camphor, petrol, humus soil, mushroom, roasted red and green bell pepper and a ton of mature red fruit, this wine is not for the meek. Still, it is unique and incredibly well crafted. Great palate with more red and black fruit and a firm but deftly integrated finish. I dig it.

***Andrew Will, Washington State, Merlot, 1992: Yummy. I dig the whole Andrew Will disdain for the “international palate” – we share an appreciation for balance and wine integrity. I also like the quirky vibe Chris Camarada exudes – reminds me a little of Nils Venge but with a Pac Rim sensibility. This wine is from the early-ish days and is well crafted, showing excellent varietal expression. Chocolate, blackberry, violets. Mineral palate with more berry fruit and mocha…a touch of pine needle. Finish is resolved but not soft. A lovely wine that is ready to be enjoyed with a nice meal. Andrew Will, Matanzas Creek and Beringer Bancroft Ranch merlot from the early 90s are worth seeking out right now.

***++Pignan Reserve, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: Made by Chateau Rayas, this is a CndP that is almost more pinot like than your typical southern Rhone. This wine is silky smooth on the palate, all red cherry fruit, black currant jam, herbs and white pepper. It has gained some subtlety with age. More berries and gaurrigue on the palate, some bramble and a firm-ish finish. This wine does not suck.

***Domaine l Aiguelière, Cote Doree, 1995: The other wine from this estate in Montpeyroux. 100% Syrah. Not quite as flamboyant as the Cote Rousse, this wine is still rustic and rough around the edges in a very artisanal way. Black fruit, lavender and minerals, and HUGE black pepper make this a mouthful of wine. The palate is downright chewy showing more slate minerality and plum and berry fruit, earth and truffle. The finish is firm with coating tannins and more of that signature black pepper. An interesting wine that has a long life ahead of it.

**++Pavillon des Connetables, 2000: Leoville Poyferre’s 3rd wine! That’s right, they have a third label. A bit of research shows that this is wines from young vines on the estate. Very St. Julien, excellent stock, though still reserved. Brooding red fruit, some slightly vegetal elements, nice cassis and earth. Palate shows very little right now, though it clearly has depth and structure. I would imagine that it will be fleshing out over the next two to 5 years. Worthy.

Wine Musings Vol#24


From notes taken July, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ***++Vare “Bianco”, 2004: Perfetto! This is a lovely wine. It is also very unusual – it is a mixture of Italian white varietals grown in the north of Italy (ribolla gialla, tocai friulano, pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc)…except they are grown and sourced from Napa Valley! Vare is named for George Vare – and long time Napa resident that has run places like Zaca Mesa, Geyser Peak and more recently Luna with John Kongsgaard and others. I believe he planted these grapes and they grow around his estate. Anyway, the wine is delicious, indeed. A deep, golden hue gives way to nutmeg, anis, grilled butternut squash and crème brule aromas, with a creamy palate and a lovely, integrated finish. It is so expressive it does best a little cooler than room temperature and makes a great white wine to serve with cheese and/or a first course. Sold in 500 ml bottles. Yum.


**Roar, Gary’s vineyard, pinot noir, 2004: The cowardly lion. This wine is made from the infamous Gary’s vineyard of Pisoni / Franchesconi fame. In fact, this wine is made by Gary Franchesconi. It has had quite a bit of acclaim and I admittedly bought it on the buzz. Well, in my opinion, I find it to be the poster child for what is increasingly wrong with new world pinot. 14.9% alcohol, this wine is hot and fat, over extracted and over the top. Finish is peppery and rough. More Turley than DRC, this wine has zinfandel / syrah like fruit. Under the heat, you can sense some great pinot fruit, cream and green tea / cola elements which makes the current state of this wine all the more a shame. And age will not help it, either – as the heat and extraction will just make the wine angrier as it ages. Too bad, really. I’ll stick with Rochioli, Kalin, Calera and Saintsbury. Balance and integration win every time.

****++Shafer, Hillside Select, 1993: Wow! An awesome wine. Elegant, deep and stately. Blindfolded, I would have guessed Lafite. Maybe 1988. Paulliac-like depth, with cassis, cedar, lead pencil and wonderful, chalky minerals. Great grip and concentration but always in perfect balance. Sweet, integrated finish with just the right firmness. Great now and great in 10 years. I expected this to be good but not nearly this good. Wow.

***+Viader, 1993: Sexy and warm. A meritage blend of pretty close to 50/50 cab / cab franc. Right now the cab franc is really showing through, with lots of licorice, truffle, porcini mushroom and red, plumy fruit. Much rounder, almost Rubenesque compared to the Hillside. In fact, the wine is starting to turn the corner a bit, showing tomato paste sweetness added to mocha and the jammy plum on the palate. Not at all undesirable, but a warning that it is time to drink up.

****Isole e Olena Vin Santo, 1997: Now that’s Italian! Much more akin to a very fine sauterne, this Vin Santo has beautiful baked pear, lichee and hazelnut notes, with nuances of tobacco and honey. Perfectly integrated and not over the top sweet or, as is typical of vin santo, nutty. Not astringent at all. Really wonderful.

Wine Musings Vol#23

From Notes taken June, 2006:
Wine of Merit: ****Notorious, Patricia Green Cellars, Yamhill County pinot noir, 2004: It’s a big promise – and it delivers. Nice. Very burgundian – but clearly from Oregon - with earth, black truffle, cola and ripe black cherry. Nutmeg and Asian spices. A touch of pine needles.


****Chateau Gruaud Larose 1978: Wow. I have had this wine many times and it has never been this good. Surprisingly powerful right from the bottle. Nose of petrol, sous bois, ripe black fruit and menthol. Big. Palate is full, with a much greater purity of black and red fruit. Exotic spices. Finish is firm. Meal in a glass. The reason I fell in love with G-L many years ago.

*****Kongsgaard Cahrdonnay, 2003: Same as last time. Best new world chard I have ever had. Period. Orange marzipan, candied lemon zest, mascarpone. Chiffon, perfect meringue with a taste of hazelnut. Mission figs. The cocaine of chardonnay.

***+Donnhoff, Neiderhauser Hermansholle, Spatelese, troken, 2002: I am sure that the description is not the complete label – what is it with the Germans? Anyway, this Riesling is the real deal. Lichee, roasted pine nuts, anise – sweet but also spiced. Viscous but not cloying at all – focused and intense. A serious wine. I loved it and bought a case. Easy to drink a lot of. No wonder they Germans lost the war. They cracked a few of these and before you know it – wham!- here come the allies and Fritz can’t even stand up. Delish!

***++Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, Chardonnay, 2004: Interesting wine. The palate is wonderful. Great, pear and meyer lemon. Nutmeg, anise. Bright and youthful, with great balance and integration. The color is downright cloudy. I mean like, cloudy chance of rain, cloudy. Perhaps it is not stabilized. Delicious.

***Ferrari Carano Cabernet Reserve, 1992: A serious wine with a groovy label. I have always liked this cab – it shows great grip, dust tannins and wonderfully full, fruit driven mouth feel across the entire palate. Probably a touch better younger – this wine still pleases as it has gained in stature and sophistication, showing some bramble and pepper along side the black fruit and menthol. Solid.

Wine Musings Vol#22


From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Nalle zinfandel, 1994: Effortless. I have a very strong fondness for Doug Nalle’s wines. They offer great balance, integration and elegance – not terms commonly used in describing zin. Yet I think it is zinfandel’s best iteration. This wine is almost Volnay like, perfumed, cherry and black currant, milk chocolate, clove and violets. Smooth across the palate with a perfectly integrated finish. No drop off at all. Low alch these days for zin (13.5) and proof positive that this style works just as well as the punch in the nose zins that get all the press. Perfect food wine.

***Ridge Geyersville, 1994: Bountiful. Geyersville has always been like the Chateauneuf of Sonoma Valley to me- each varietal contributing to the mélange of flavors and aromas. This wine is mature but hardly seems old. Great clarity and color. It offers ripe plum and boysenberry, bramble and grilled meat elements. Big white pepper, bitter chocolate palate and a puckery finish. Nice.

****Martinelli Jackass Vineyard, 1993: The other end of the spectrum. Mature color, big, thick viscous wine. Almost 16% alch! This is a big, flamboyant wine, though none the less delicious. The nose offers fantastic, candied citrus and plum fruit, a crème brule sweetness and creaminess and a very notable black cherry liquer element to it. Wow! The palate is surprisingly fresh and focused, adding great bramble and North African spices…Branche Marocain? The finish is huge – though the tannins are sweet not searing – contributing to a wine experience that really doesn’t require food to be wonderful.

**++J. Fritz late harvest zinfandel, 1994: Liquid chocolate. Really, this is really only slightly more full blown than the Martinelli – same black cherry liqueur housed in a dark chocolate casing. Very port like, without the depth and concentration of great port. Nice with a dessert.

***Ridge Pagani Vineyard zinfandel 1991: Surprisingly supple and integrated. The fruit is mature but not cooked. Briar and chocolate. Marzipan on the palate. Nicely resolved, slightly sweet finish. Drink up.

***Ridge Pagani vineyard Late Picked zinfandel, 1992: The first of the blockbuster, super extracted zins. Similar to the Martinelli, perhaps lacking the freshness and the depth on the finish. Black cherry liqueur. Chocolate, hazelnut cream. Thick. Fun wine.

**+Ridge Pagani vineyard zinfandel, 1993: Ok – If perhaps a bit thin and racy. A field blend including the usual suspects. Red, cherry fruit, spices and Malabar pepper. Very varietal. Not bad, but not wonderful either. Over oaked a bit. Spicy finish.

**+Ridge Lytton Springs zinfandel, 1993: I have officially fallen out of love with Ridge zins. Similar to the Pagani – some petite syrah, mataro, alicante, etc…Racy red fruit, plum, thinning, pepper, bitter chocolate and nutmeg. Has a bitter stalkiness that I assume comes from new American Oak. Just OK.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Wine Musings LTD: Paris Tasting Redux


Ok - not really. But the wines, if not the vintages, were similar. More or less. As in more Mouton and Montebello and less everything else. And we included an 89 Haut Brion that the folks in 1976 could only have dreamed about. To the wines:


**1983 Leoville Las Cases: Already passed its prime and devolving. Brickish rim. Nose has elements of tomato skin and stewed fruit, along with the signature St. Julien earth and cigar box.

***1983 Mouton Rothschild: Better than I have had before. Good solid color. Expressive nose of black fruit, tobacco, cedar and graphite. Lovely grip and surprisingly integrated finish. The mint should have told me mouton, but it just seemed too good to be the 83. Would I pay $180 a pop for this wine right now? Probably not – but it is a very good wine nonetheless.

**++1985 Ridge Montebello: I mistook this wine for the Mouton, as the Mouton was a better wine and I have a high opinion of the 85 Montebello. This was a good, not great bottle. Good fruit structure, some floral notes, good minerals with more evident wood and a big finish. Nice.

***++1984 Diamond Creek RRT: A truly lovely wine. Soft though by no means flabby – more elegant – this wine has great berry and stone fruit, violets and a mountain quality that includes bramble and lavender. I could drink a ton of this wine. The biggest favor RP ever did me was bad mouthing Diamond Creek. Wonderful.

*****1989 Haut Brion: As described above, quite the experience. Many, many layers of aromas and flavors, surprising sweetness which Dave says means that it is aging a bit (I should age this well), amazing depth and perfectly seamless integration. A quintessential wine. I think I saw John Caldarella tear up after the first sip. I don’t blame him.

***1989 Ridge Montebello: Very nice, though dwarfed in every way by the Haut Brion. It did not remind me of the great Montebellos I have had. Fairly well evolved, deep black fruit, some vegetal qualities, round mouth feel, searingly tannic.

***1989 Mouton Rothschild: I had big hopes for this wine as it is my anniversary year. A solid effort though I think not as good as other 89 Paulliac wines. Tobacco, cassis, red candied fruits. Full palate though the finish falls apart a bit. Worth drinking but not a longer term wine I don’t think.

1990 Dominus: Not a good showing for this wine. A bit funky, falling apart, red fruit, not worth writing home (or to you) about much. I have had great bottles of this wine and think it was simply an off bottle.

***++1993 Mouton Rothschild: Back on the road to Wellville. This is an outstanding wine – which exceeds my expectation. All of the Mouton elements are there, mint, black fruit, cassis, tobacco, lead pencil. Excellent concentration right through to the finish. Lovely and worth the current asking.

****1991 +Ridge Montebello: Another truly great wine. This is why I love Montebello. Great concentration, mountain fruit, minerals and violets – a deep, youthful, complex wine. Worth seeking out.

****1991 Stags Leap Cask 23: I think this was a controversial wine. I thought it was breathtaking of a fine wine. Velvety texture, satiny red fruit, pink peppercorn, rose petal, black truffle – it had Cheval Blanc like characteristics. It is definitely mature, but I thought it a very special wine – in the top 4 of the tastng.

***+1996 Ridge Montebello: I have previously posted on this wine. A great Montebello drinking great now. I thought the last bottle slightly better.

***(?)1995 Leoville Las Cases: A frustrating wine. The nose is coy and showing next to nothing. The palate is full, strong, offering great minerals and very nice balance and integration. Patience is a virtue – but right now I would bury this wine in the cellar and drink something else – hoping for some kind of awakening.

***+1997 Phelps Insignia: I thought this wine got a bit lost in the fray. Deep fruit, mocha, signature mint, slate, surprisingly firm, almost painful finish. It was delicious but seemed almost one dimensional. I have always been a huge fan of this wine from 1985 – 1991…I think it has become almost simple as it has attempted to cater to the international palate.

***1998 La Tour: Not a great LaTour, though clearly a noble wine. I do not have a strong recollection of this wine other than that I was surprised how one dimensional it was, offering deep, chalky black fruit and nice grip – but overall lacking the quality that makes me “1st growth”. I have had truly great LaTour, including the 59 / 61 / 70 / 90. This was not one of those. Nice.

****++2000 Mouton Rothschild: Another mind bending wine. Wow. What depth. Tobacco, cassis liquor, violets, mint and deeeeeeep stone fruit. Wonderful palate with minerals, red and black fruit, clove, briar. A statuesque wine. At $350 this is almost a steal.

That’s it. The 89 HB, 00 MR, 91 MB and 91 Stags are my wines of the evening, in that order. So in our 1976 Paris Tasting the French reclaim the title! All are 95 to 100 point wines, IMHO. No losers here.

Wine Musings Vol#21

From notes taken June, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ***++ Camigliano, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Ladies and gentleman, we have a winner. Delicious. Elegant, refined, smooth (!) and well integrated. Black Cherries and apricot, wonderful minerals and grilled meats, saddle leather and some spice box. Right on. Great integration through to a firm but sweet finish. A real crowd pleaser. Mamma Mia!

**++Peter Michael, Belle Cote, 1997: Nice, burgundian – not as good as the 1996. Showing good linseed oil and popcorn, with butter and vanilla custard. Oily mouthfeel and a hint of madiera. Not as structured and the acids are not holding up as well as the 1996. Lovely if unraveling somewhat. Drink now.

***Monteallegro, Cabernet sauvignon, 1997: Only great bottles…This was nowhere near as good (read as complex) as the otherworldly bottle we had 6 months ago. Still lovely and very solid; red fruit, grilled meats, espresso grind notes. Slight thinness to the mid palate. Strong finish. Drink now. Given my prior notes, expect some bottle variation.

***+Argiano, Brunello di Monalcino, 1997: Lovely. Honestly, very similar to the Monteallegro, with a touch more depth and better structure. Red and black fruit, grilled meat, lavender, sous bois. Nice. Very Italian. Racy acids. I liked it very much.

***Ravenswood, Old Hill zinfandel, 1993: Not a typo. 1993! Bricking at the edge, but still holding on. Still very much holding its own. Lush, red plum, big white pepper and lovely floral notes. Soft on the palate with no drop outs and furry tannins. A good opener and easy to drink.

***+Rafanelli, Dry Creek zinfandel, 1995: Still plenty of fruit, with some interesting bell pepper and lavender nuances. Offers briar, white peach and racy acids. Solid and clean, to the firm finish. Yum. Worth drinking. Dry creek zin, when done right, is always a winner. I appreciate this old school style of zin making that allows for some bottle age without the prunes and heat. If you have it, drink it now and enjoy.

***+Biale Spenker Vineyard, Sonoma zinfandel, 1998: Just when I thought I was out, they drag me back in. Great wine. With age this wine has become lush, palate coating and deep. Aromas of earth, mature red fruit, cigar box and citrus. Palate coating entry and a resolved mid palate with more red fruit and briar. Long, chocolaty finish. Super.

Some re-tastes - I had a second 1997 Belle Cote that was superb and adds a star to my previous rating, ditto on a second 1999 Farrell Rochioli/Allen chard, perfect right now! -, a second 1995 White Cottage zin that showed beautifully, redolent with mountain zin fruit on the palate but was a touch musty on the nose and a second 1996 White Cottage Merlot that was yummy and very varietal (the Biale zin reminded me a touch of this wine). Also had a second 2003 Failla Keefer Ranch. Jordan should stick to red wine. Not bad, clearly in an old world Chablis style – good minerals and acids, bright and fresh - just not over the top wonderful like his pinot and syrah. At $33 a pop, it is overpriced.

**F&L Pillot Puligny Montrachet, “Noyers Bret”, 1997: A bit disappointing. Maybe it was the vintage as I have had this wine before with successful result. Varietal but rather flat. Typical citrus notes and some green wood elements. Touch of vanilla and white peaches. I think this wine was simply past its prime from an average vintage.

*+Chasseur Dutton Vineyard “Sylvia’s” pinot noir, 1999: This wine has been terrific in the past but has now become searingly acidic. The fruit is still there, mostly red fruit, cinnamon and rose hip tea, but it is so hot I have a hard time drinking it.

Wine Musings Vol#20

From notes taken June, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Neiman, Caldwell vineyard cabernet, 2002: Wow. This is really a lovely wine. A recommendation from the folks at Amanti Vino. Deep, deep, deep. Very expressive right out of the bottle, it offers valrhona chocolate, blackberry preserves, truffle and lavender. Minerals, graphite and black fruit on the palate suggests mountain growing. Isn’t Caldwell in Carneros? I am going to guess that this wine has as much merlot and/or cab franc as cabernet sauvignon – a “Bordeaux” blend that will in no way be mistaken for Bordeaux, given the fruit driven style. Lush, but in no way fat or flabby. I am guessing this wine will age gracefully, adding complexity and nuance, given its excellent balance and structure. I believe this is a Skurnik wine and not produced in large quantities – but it is definitely worth searching out and acquiring. The most difficult thing for me will be keeping my hands off of it to let it develop fully. Righteous!

****Galleron, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: I have commented previously on this wine. Drinking it next to the Neiman, it is stoic instead of sexy. Amazing that it continues to do so well. This time, the wine shows most of the already noted red/black fruit, sage and briar but also a bright, menthol note, as the mint really comes to the front. Not quite as seamless as last tasted, the finish is pronounced, exposing a slight thinning in the mid palate. Still explosive and worth opening at a special occasion.

***+Daniel, Bordeaux Blend, 1984: Before there was Napanook, there was Daniel – the second wine of Dominus. I believe this was one of Christian’s first vintages. Honestly, I had given up on this wine years ago, having found it, at the time (maybe 7 years ago) falling apart. Just goes to show you. This wine is fabulous. Very much in your face Bordeaux styled wine, showing old school Gruaud Larose like barnyard, mushroom, minerally black fruit and a touch of bell pepper. If I were to quibble, the mid palate is a bit thin (though it too offers big black fruit, minerals and Malabar pepper) and the finish is still searingly tannic, suggesting a lack of balance that I prize in all great wines. Still, it is formidable for what it is – a mature, well made cab based wine of great provenance (and a second label at that). After less than 30 minutes the wine begins to fall apart, showing mostly sweet, floral notes and mature red fruit. If you happen to have a bottle, drink it with a nice steak and consider yourself lucky. Well done!

***Bedford Road, Malborough, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Bright and sassy. Still showing a sprtiz of Co2, this wine offers grassy tropical fruits, melon, beach nut and a touch of herbs. Bracing acids and a consistent mouth feel through to the finish. A crowd pleaser and lovely drink on a hot day – Amy LOVES it. Still not as good as the Kim Crawford Sauv Blanc that is my all time favorite QPR (you can get it for $10 a pop at PJs).

**Cline Bridgehead, zinfandel, 1994: A fossil. In an attempt to rid my cellar of old zin, I cracked this. Though it got a big number form RP back in the day, I found it stalky, weedy and unpleasant at release (those were the days when I bought a wine because RP said so. Thank goodness those days are over). Now it is just an angry, old wine – hot and acidic with some stewed red fruit, black pepper and chocolate. With air the heat kinda goes away making it at least drinkable. Good thing Amy cooks with wine.

Wine Musings Vol#19

From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay, 2003: Wonderful. Great structure, minerality and depth. Reminds me of a young, Coche Dury Mersault. Wet flint or slate, then Anjou pear, asian spice and white flowers. Great depth, with verbena and nutmeg on the palate. Deep. Long finish. Nice.

***Myuge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 2003: Purchased at the urging of Sharon Severens over at Amanti Vino – (congrats on the new baby boy, Sharon!) – and with good cause. This wine is made by the same folks who make Favia pinots (see previous review) – and candidly, they are of that same, Favia / Kosta Browne, type of mold. Reminds me of the older Williams Selyem style…not light of hand, pretty well extracted but laser focused and nicely integrated. Striking notes of cinnamon, green tea, black cherry and pink peppercorn jump from the glass. With air the New French Oak also shows through, adding vanilla and brightening the cinnamon elements. The palate is creamy and coating and the finish, aided by the oak is long and lush. There is no mistaking this wine for anything else other than excellent, RRV pinot – which you may either dig or not so much. I do.

***Haut Bages Liberal, 2000: I opened this bottle to get a sense of the wine as it applies to 2005 futures. If this wine is any indication, I say buy! Wonderful though still hard as nails – it is all about Paulliac – deep black fruit, cassis, lead pencil, cigar box. Hard to judge concentration as the wine is so bruising and young, but all of the elements seem in place. Tannins are very firm but furry, not painful. Needs another 4 to 6 years and then will continue to evolve for 10+. Given that I bought this at $275 a case in futures, this is clearly a great alternative to some of the overpriced big boys. It reminds me of the bargain Pontet Canet used to be.

*++Suasal Century Vines, zinfandel, 2003: This got big press some time ago, so I thought I would try a bottle. It is not my style of zin. 14.8% alcohol, over extracted, almost port like stewed black fruit, bramble, church incense. Intense chocolate. Fat. If you love Turley and the like this is a great buy. Let me know who you are as I have another bottle in the cellar.

*+Ridge Bertuzzi zinfandel, 1994, ATP: I stopped getting ATP wines when I realized it was Ridge’s version of the island of misfit toys. This is proof positive. Admittedly, this wine should have been consumed 4 to 5 years ago. I am not sure it was spectacular then either. The wine is a bit disjointed, with a tired nose of tomato skin with some red fruit and bramble. Probably the Alicante which has fallen apart. The palate is much nicer, with plum and chocolate, violets and white pepper notes. The finish is pleasant if fading.

*++Ridge Allegria vineyard zinfandel, 1994, ATP: The definition of insanity is doing the same thing a second time and expecting a different outcome. Here again, tired fruit upfront (though it has not fallen apart the way the Bertolozzi did), followed by a good core of bramble, pepper and plum. I think the lack of Alicante allowed this wine more focus. The air dried American Oak tinges the wine with a green wood quality. Next.

**++Biale, Aldo’s vineyard, 1994: The old zin experiment continues. An elegant, if fragile wine, this offers much better integrity and balance. A lovely wine showing it’s sense of place quite nicely. The knock on Biale is the wines are subtle and maybe more claret like. I am sure that is what has allowed this wine to age as well as it has, even though its best days are behind it. Drink now.